Last night my boyfriend texted that he was tasting a fabulous smoked salmon tartar. Of all nights, this was the WORST possible evening to receive such information. For the past week I've been dreaming about the perfect smoked salmon toast/crostini/tartar and have not come up with a place that would quench this craving or, more importantly, an eatery that would not leave one feeling disappointed with the fishy and grotesque taste of low-grade, poor-quality salmon,
until.....
I dug deep into the depths of my brain and thought, where does the very best smoked salmon come from?
Russ & Daughters!
Well, actually it comes from Scotland and the Norwegian areas of Europe but in terms of New York access, Russ & Daughters has the very best selection.
Smoked Salmon, (you should just know, lox has never been in my vocabulary as my family is not originally from New York, and we are way too European to say things like lox), is such a delicacy that I was way too afraid of appreciating until last year. For all my recollected life, during both Thanksgiving brunch and Yom Kippur break fast, I was nauseated by the site of my cousin scarfing down the best caviar and smoked salmon purchased, always, from Russ & Daughters. I would then proceed to move my seat away from her as the site of smoked fish was completely disgusting.
In recent years, I have now become to my sister, what my cousin once was to me. I don't believe I am scarfing (although we should double check with my sister on that one), but I definitely do lots of savoring and appreciating of every last smokey bite. And, I also keep my enjoyment private or my dad will proceed to horde and hide whatever is leftover.
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Look how each piece is sliced so thin.
The slicing is just as important as the quality.
Source |
I must pay tribute to this very establishment for getting me hooked on the smoked salmon drug.
Thank you!
The Salmon
Once you've arrived at the shop, or begin placing your order online or by phone, you must go for the expensive stuff. It's always the best and it's worth every single penny. Smoked salmon, and most raw fish and sushi, for the most part, is where you must forgo quantity for quality and pay the price. If you decide not to, the quality is still the best here. So don't worry.
Whenever I go for Russ & Daughters I/we (as in my familia, most specifically my father) buy the salmon by the pound. I recommend trying 3 or 4 different types so you get to learn the varying salmon tastes. We always go for organic, Scottish and then we ask the teller to recommend anything else.
This is the type of establishment where the price increases as the quality increases.
Splurge on the best and you will not regret it.
If, and only if, you don't think you can handle eating the salmon plain, then Russ & Daughters does leave you with a good old fashioned bagel with cream cheese and "lox" option. They aren't stupid or pretentious, and know their New York customer enough to offer fresh bagels and a fabulous variety of cream cheeses which are great for purchase as well. We always pick up some of the latter as well. I think a bagel with the whole to-do does amount to something like $10. Don't quote me on that though.
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Source
Look above, the salmon and the bagel has got to be separate! |
You must know, I never eat my smoked salmon on a bagel with cream cheese. To me it ruins the delicacy completely and I'd only do that if I didn't want to actually
taste the salmon. Such a simple pleasure that becomes almost impossible with all the other cream cheese and bagel stuff thrown into the mix. I'm such a disgusting food snob, I know. But, my father has trained me well.
HOWEVER, if you are the bagels + "lox" type, then there is no place finer!
Anyway, if you have decided to purchase by the pound, I recommend rolling each slice as if you were rolling deli meats and lay it out on a pretty plate. If you look at the first photo above you will see that they are easy to roll.
At home, that's what we normally do.
I am very particular with my salmon and enjoy it with lots of lemon and fresh ground pepper.
Cheers to the perfect Sunday morning breakfast (or brunch).
Happy Sunday morning people!
Wait Time & Resos
For Russ & Daughters it is recommended to visit at an off hour or very early in the morning. Any peek times will merit an extremely long wait. As I've already mentioned, I don't really do the whole waiting thing, and hate waiting in line. My work lunch break is usually the perfect opportunity to hop the F train to Second Ave and pick up a pound.
Never go on weekends.
Too busy! But, buy before the weekend and it will stay fresh until Sunday.
Russ & Daughters
179 East Houston
(between East Houston & 2nd Avenue)
http://www.russanddaughters.com/
Good For:
Breakfast, Lunch, Small Intimate Gatherings
(Here I am referring to the smoked salmon itself, not the physical establishment)